Wellington on a whim

Destinations, Dispatches from Down Under, New Zealand

Wellington on a whim

6 Comments 19 January 2012

We arrived in Wellington cold, homeless and hungry.

Yes, five months ago we arrived in this city and it’s hard to believe how much has changed. We had no idea where we’d go or what we would see when we first arrived in New Zealand, but we definitely didn’t expect to make such an amazing home in Wellington. This is the tale of what brought us to the windy city and how it blew us away.

After about five months of jobless travel around Asia and America, we took a chance and headed to New Zealand on a working holiday visa instead of saving up at home. We didn’t have a choice really. Since Ric and I are from different countries, this was one of the few easy ways to stay together and work. Parting was out of the question.

So we boarded a plane for a long flight in early July. Destination: Queenstown, but not for long. Queenstown was our original arrival city, because-well it’s Queenstown; winter wonderland, extreme sports, lots of backpackers. Unfortunately, our arrival date was mid-ski season, making it hard to find work. Further, it had yet to snow in Queenstown that season, making it even harder to find work.

On the way from Queenstown to Blenheim in July.

No worries. Ric had a friend he met in Australia living and working in Blenheim. Biggest legend ever, not only did she let us crash at her house for a long time, but also sorted Ric out with a job before he even arrived.

We arrived at the small town in the middle of Marlborough, a huge wine region, and met our friend for drinks. While at a bar, I met a guy who worked in viticulture and he gave me a contact for a local vineyard looking for workers. Next day, I was sorted with a job.

We thought we made it. We thought we were going to be okay. We thought wrong. Family matters had me on a plane back to the States only ten days after arriving. I spent two weeks at home then was on a plane back to New Zealand. Talk about jet lag.

In that time, Ric was ready to leave Blenheim. It’s not the most active town, plus Ric wasn’t doing his passion, cooking, so he had enough. To add to that he had fractured his thumb, making him actually unable to work for a few weeks.

I arrived back in Blenheim with a choice. Either stay in the quiet town doing jobs that weren’t nessarily our favorite or make a move to Wellington, the closest city, and see how it worked out.

We went for Wellington.

It’s not a cheap trip either. Wellington is on the North Island and Blenheim on the South. People must take either a plane or a ferry to get to Wellington from the South Island because they must cross the Cook Strait, either way your looking at spending about $70.

We came to Wellington with one night booked at a hostel, hoping to find a flat, jobs and a routine in a day. That’s when things started to look up.

It was just me job hunting at that point. Ric couldn’t because of his thumb. I felt so much pressure hunting for jobs that day. Between contacting people on TradeMe and walking into places, I had about seven job opportunities within the first day of looking.

I remember sitting at a kebab shop on Courtney Place, nervous but excited about what would come in this city. The owner gave us one of those “buy-ten-kebabs-get-one-free cards”. I wondered if we would even last long enough in this city to get that free kebab.

Ric was in charge of finding us a room. He looked on TradeMe and Easyroommate. We had a few good prospects in just two days of searching. One room and couple looked like an especially good match for us. That night while I had a job trial, Ric looked at a room. At the end of my trial, I had a message on my phone that said, “Come home.” I grabbed my stuff from the hostel and hopped a bus to Mt. Cook.

Since we arrived so late, we didn’t really have time to make our new room comfortable. Our new roomies were nice enough to give us comforters and pillows, but they were covered in cat fur and Ric and I are both allergic. The room only came with a bed, which is actually quite lucky considering most of the rooms we saw came with nothing. We had to make it work though.

God that first night. The matress was so old that the springs had worn out, so Ric and I just kept rolling into eachother in the middle of it. On top of that we were sneezing and coughing all night because of the cat. I’m not writing this as a complaint, just as a funny note on how ridiculous that first night was.

The next day I did a trial at Fidel’s Cafe, pretty much a Wellington icon, and was hired. The next week we both organized our new room, sorting the bed out, using boxes as tables and dressers and putting some art up on the walls. The following week Ric found a job at Hotel Bristol and was hired to do what he loves, cook.

This little door can be found out the back of Fidel's. I fell in love with it when I found it. Photo by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

Leaving Wellington we are in a completely different situation. We both saved up a lot of money, met so many wonderful people here who were so welcoming, got to experience the World Cup in one of New Zealand’s biggest cities, beat our cat allergies (we both fell in love with the little guy) and we’ll even get to eat that free kebab.

Now that it’s time to say good bye to Wellington, I can’t help but look back on how we arrived and just give the city and all the people in it a massive thanks. I can’t speak on behalf of Ric, but I’ve never had a work place treat me so well and the people working there welcome me so much. We made a home here when we were literally close to being homeless. Everyone here was so amazing, it was a true realization of how kind the kiwi spirit is.

My favorite shot of Rondell, the best cat ever. Photo by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

My year in travel: 2011

Destinations, Dispatches from Down Under, Online and Other

My year in travel: 2011

6 Comments 23 December 2011

For the first time in my 25 years on earth, I spent an entire calendar year traveling.

And what a year it was. 

A year of traveling with a partner for the first time. A year that took me to a new continent, Asia. A year that pretty much brought me around the globe. Even a year in which I got to travel around my own country a bit.

This year has been a spectacular one. Let’s have a look back on what I did in 2011.

 Australia

My year actually started with an end. On January 26, Australia Day, I said farewell to the massive country I had called my home for most of 2010. My final days in Australia were spent mainly in Melbourne, where my boyfriend Ric and I lived in a tiny apartment on Chapel Street.

It was really hard to say goodbye to such an amazing country. It was even harder to close one of the best travel experiences of my life, the work holiday visa. I met so many amazing people in Australia, but the best of them all was the hardest to say goodbye to on that last day in the country.

Ric and I bid each other farewell as I headed off to the Philippines and he stayed in Melbourne.

Philippines

Hello Southeast Asia! I never thought or planned on visiting this part of the world, but after hearing how amazing it was from travelers in Australia, I just had to. The Philippines was my first stop, Donsol in particular. I visited for whaleshark season and after three tries I actually got to see one of the big fellas.

From Donsol, I headed to Cebu City where I spent some time with a friend of a friend’s family. After seeing such kindness from total strangers, I was moved to extend my visa to the Philippines by one more month. One month just wasn’t enough.

It’s a good thing I did as my next stop in the country, Malapascua, was just too hard to leave. I visited the tiny island planning to stay three days. I ended up, not only staying six weeks, but also earning my divemaster certification.

And guess who came to meet me in the Philippines?

Only the most special boy in the world. Ric spent about 12 days in paradise with me as I finished up my training. Later, we kicked off our travels together in Hong Kong.

Hong Kong

I wasn’t sure what to expect in this massive city. I thought of it as China, but people would say it’s not really China. At first glance I was just in shock over how many apartment buildings were in the city.

I really loved the place and I especially loved sharing it with my new travel partner. We visited the Big Buddha, went on a bus tour of the city, road the Peak Tram and ate lots of dim sum. It’s an expensive place to visit, so I’m hoping to go back one day with more money.

Thailand

We headed to the mother of all backpacker destinations, Bangkok, in late March. There we met up with my friend Julia who flew all the way out to travel with us for a few weeks. Bangkok is the most pleasant surprise I’ve ever had traveling. I expected it to be this seedy town with nothing but ping pong shows and heavy drinking to offer.

But it’s so much more. 

For starters, it’s an international city with amazing museums, restaurants, malls and more. But for backpackers, it’s something much more. I’ve never seen so many travelers bobbing around happily as I did on Khaosan Road. It made me wish I planned a few more nights in the city, but no worries, we would end up coming back three more times.

From Bangkok, we visited Ko Samet and Ko Chang, where Julia and I became deathly ill for ten days. I think it was bad eggs, but hey, I lost about 20 lbs, so silver lining. We said goodbye to Julia then spent probably more time than we should have in Lonely Beach.

We left the island to meet Ric’s mom and brother in Pattaya. It was my first time meeting them, so I was quite nervous. But they are amazing and we had a great time. There we celebrated Songkran and made a visa run to Cambodia. However, Pattaya is probably a place I’ll never return. It’s pretty much what I expected of Bangkok originally.

After another sad goodbye, Ric and I kept on traveling Thailand. This time we headed south visiting Koh Tao. We mainly relaxed here as we were gearing up for the famous Full Moon Party on Koh Phangan on April 18. We spent the next day recuperating on Koh Tao, then continued traveling south to Koh Samui.

On our visit to the over-commercialized island, we rented motorbikes, swam under waterfalls and visited Ang Thong Marine Park, the real inspiration for “The Beach”.

But we wanted more “Beach” action so we crossed Thailand to Ko Phi Phi on the west coast. A $US10 tour of the islands proved to be our best purchase and best day in Southeast Asia. Also, my best Easter Sunday ever.

After Ko Phi Phi we had to leave Thailand as our visas ran out.

Laos

First stop in Laos was Vang Vieng for its famous tubing. We spent a week in the tiny town on the river and never actually completed the tube route on the Nam Song River. But we had loads of fun, drank lots of buckets and watched an absurd amount of Family Guy.

After Vang Vieng we needed a serious detox, so we spent another week in 4,000 Islands. In this quiet area of Laos, we spent a lot of time lounging, but also did quite a bit of exploring. We rented bikes and visited the largest waterfall in southeast Asia. I also got to see Irrawaddy dolphins. I saw them alone as Ric broke his bike and was too defeated to walk any further.

 Cambodia

The trip from Laos to Cambodia involved two intense bus journeys. It took an entire day, but we finally reached Siem Reap in mid-May. The biggest attraction here is Angkor Wat, which is stunning, but I actually really enjoyed the town itself. We spent about a week there watching football and drinking cheap beer.

USA

It was time to fly our tan selves to the US of A, my homeland and Ric’s dream destination. It was Ric’s first time visiting the States, so the trip home was a really special one for me.

We landed in California, where I surprised a friend. There we drove the Pacific Coast Highway from Laguna Beach to Hermossa Beach. We also visited Hollywood and ended up on the set of our favorite show, Entourage.


No one from the east coast knew I was in the country at that point, except my Uncle. I had been secretly planning a trip home with him since October, so I could surprise my dad for his birthday. Everything went as planned. We spent one day hiding out at my Aunt and Uncles, that night my dad opened their garage door to see Ric and I standing there with ribbons around our necks.

But we didn’t sit still for too long. After about a week, we were on the road again. We drove from NJ to Alabama for a wedding in which Ric was best man. On the road trip I showed Ric around Washington D.C. and made a lot of fast food stops. He couldn’t get enough of America’s burgers and sandwiches.

It was my first time visiting Alabama and it was good to see the southern comfort side of the States. We spent most of our week there playing on a lake located behind the house we were staying at. We jet skied, tubed, kayaked, even jumped off a ridiculously high bridge. That really hurt. 

The wedding was beautiful, the party was wild. We left Alabama extremely hungover en route to St. Augustine, Florida, where I showed Ric around my first real travel destination.

The rest of my time in the States was spent in NJ and Philadelphia. Erin, a friend I made studying abroad in London came out to visit, Ric climbed the Rocky steps and we celebrated the Fourth of July at the Jersey shore. But the highlight of my trip home was welcoming my gorgeous nephew Jake into the world. I love my life and all the traveling it entails, but it means missing out on some really spectacular occasions at home. I’m just happy I didn’t have to miss this one.

Add another farewell to my 2011 of goodbyes, as Ric and I left the States to go back down under, this time for a work-holiday visa in New Zealand.

New Zealand

We arrived in snowy Queenstown in July, but didn’t stay for long. We spent two days driving up to Blenheim where Ric already had a job sorted. Then a real twist came when I had to go back home for an emergency. I came back to New Zealand two weeks later and we were on the road again, this time only a short journey to Wellington.

After quite a hectic first half of the year, Ric and I were exhausted and broke. So we made a home in Wellington, got proper jobs, worked loads and saved up for our next adventure, the South Island in 2012.

We’ve been in Wellington for four months now and I’ve grown quite attached to the small city. We held back a lot during our time here as we were saving, but we still managed to accomplish quite a bit.

In September we rented a car and visited Lord of the Rings’ film locations in the area. October was all about the Rugby World Cup, so we went to see USA vs. Australia at Westpac Stadium. I got to see the All Blacks parade Wellington after they won. In November I celebrated yet another Thanksgiving abroad. In December we bought a car and started road tripping to nearby beaches and towns. Oh, and I met a good portion of the cast of “The Hobbit” through work.

We didn’t just get to know Wellington, we pretty much became a part of the city. I’ve even started saying “mean”.

It’s been another year packed with adventure and it’s only going to get even more intense in 2012. January and February of the new year will be dedicated to traveling New Zealand. However, February is depending on whether or not I survive the Nevis Jump, so let’s hope for the best.

What did you do in 2011? Have you visited any of the same places? Do share.

My travel bucket list

Dispatches from Down Under, Online and Other

My travel bucket list

7 Comments 22 September 2011

I love the idea of a bucket list and especially love reading other bloggers’ lists. I not only get ideas of things to do from their dreams, but I personally enjoy watching them cross something off their lists.

So if I love it so much, why have I never done it myself?

Because the idea actually scares me. Jotting down every thing I want to do before I die! I’ve always been the type to just go with it and grab any opportunity that is thrown my way. But I’m constantly noting things I want to see and do, so why not express it with the world.

Thanks to some inspiration from Latin Abroad and Two Travelholics, I’m finally getting around to writing my very own bucket list. Since I’m doing it so late in the game through, I’m going to take Two Travelholics’ advice and make a sort of reverse bucket list, write some of the accomplishments I’m proud of. Here are some things I want to do before I died, some may already be checked off and plenty more will be added to it.

  1. Tandem Skydive check: Interlocken, Switzerland 2007 and Mission Beach, Australia 2010
  2. Travel from China to Russia by train.
  3. Live in an Ashram in India for three months.
  4. Live in another country. check: England 2007, Australia 2010, New Zealand 2011
  5. Walk across the USA, seriously!
  6. Visit Uruguay.
  7. Backpack South and Central America.
  8. Ride an elephant to a waterfall while wearing a green dress.
  9. Swim with whalesharks. check: Donsol, Philippines 2011
  10. Become a dive instructor.
  11. Get over my fear of sharks. check: Malapascua, Philippines 2011
  12. Live and work on a vineyard in Tuscany, Italy.
  13. Write a guidebook.
  14. Go on safari in South Africa.
  15. Climb Kiliminjara.
  16. Breathe the air in Montana, USA.
  17. Bungy jump. check: AJ Hackett Cairns, Australia 2011
  18. Bungy jump from Macau Tower.
  19. Get married in Vegas.
  20. Bring my dad on a backpacking trip.
  21. Live in Spain.
  22. Visit Antarctica.
  23. Travel India with my first travel partner and best friend, Erin.
  24. Learn how to ski.
  25. See the Northern Lights in person.
Realizing good coffee

Australia, Destinations, Dispatches from Down Under, Food & Drink, New Zealand

Realizing good coffee

5 Comments 16 September 2011

I remember it like it was yesterday. The day I learned I know nothing about coffee.
Fresh off a great two month journey up Australia’s East coast, I arrived in Port Douglas, ready to work. I walked into a busy cafe called rehab with the local paper’s classified section in hand.
Falling in love with the cafe instantly, I thought, “Why not here?” And as luck would have it they posted a “barista wanted” sign in the window. With my one-year-worth of experience as a barista at Starbucks in the States, I walked up to the counter with confidence and asked the dreadlocked manager for a job.
“Do you know how to make coffee?” he asked.
“Why yes sir,” I replied. “I worked at Starbucks.”
“Then you don’t know how to make coffee,” he said with a judgmental look and continued what he was doing.
At first I chucked it up to Aussie arrogance. But the more I traveled and the more I tasted, the more I realized how right he was.
Forgetting all the reasons people hate or love Starbucks, I’m sorry but they’re coffee is not very good. Sorry, it’s true.
I know the company treats their employees well, but giving an 18-year-old an hour-long online coffee course and a few hours of training at an automatic coffee machine, does not make him or her a barista.
I learned this in Australia, but am now trying to learn what does make a person a barista in New Zealand. What I’m finding is that it’s practice and attention.
It’s amazing how much they care about coffee down here and quite refreshing. It’s not just a job, it’s an art.
I was a frequent customer at a tiny cafe called Origins in Port Douglas. The barista there would buy antique or hard to find coffee-making objects. I saw through him what it meant to care about coffee. It payed off, I couldn’t get enough of the place and still long for their cappuccinos.
I worked at a small cafe called Neighbours on Chapel Street in Australia and the baristas there were obsessed with creating a perfect cup of coffee for each customer each time. As a waitress there I saw what that meant when most customers averaged three cups and quite a few visited more than once a day.
I’m not saying that coffee is completely terrible in the states. In fact, I know it’s not. On a recent trip home, I visited a number of places that served coffee with attention. They created a perfect shot, frothed the milk just right and even created designs between the coffee in milk. I just think that places like these are unfortunately overlooked.
So I’m pledging to myself to learn to make coffee like they do down under and I think at home people should embrace small coffee shops that are doing something similar to here.

I remember it like it was yesterday.

The day I learned that I knew nothing about coffee.

Fresh off a great two month journey up Australia’s East coast, I arrived in Port Douglas, ready to work. I walked into a busy cafe called Rehab, now closed, with the local paper’s classified section in hand.

Falling in love with the cafe instantly, I thought, “Why not here?” And as luck would have it they posted a “barista wanted” sign in the window. With my one-year-worth of experience as a barista at Starbucks in the States, I walked up to the counter with confidence and asked the dreadlocked manager for a job.

“Do you know how to make coffee?” he asked.

“Why yes sir,” I replied. “I worked at Starbucks.”

“Then you don’t know how to make coffee,” he said with a judgmental look and continued what he was doing.

At first I chucked it up to Aussie arrogance. But the more I traveled and the more I tasted, the more I realized how right he was.

Forgetting all the reasons people hate or love Starbucks, I’m sorry but their coffee is not very good.

I know the company treats their employees well, but giving an 18-year-old an hour-long online course and a few hours of training at an automatic coffee machine, does not make him or her a barista.

I learned this in Australia, but am now trying to learn what does make a person a barista in New Zealand. What I’m finding is that it’s practice and attention.

It’s amazing how much they care about coffee down here and quite refreshing. It’s not just a job, it’s an art.

I was a frequent customer at a tiny cafe called Origins in Port Douglas. The barista there would buy antique or hard to find coffee-making objects. I saw through him what it meant to care about coffee. It payed off, I couldn’t get enough of the place and still long for their cappuccinos.

I worked at a small cafe called Neighbours on Chapel Street in Melbourne and the baristas there were obsessed with creating a perfect cup of coffee for each customer each time. As a waitress there I saw what that meant when most customers averaged three cups and quite a few visited more than once a day.

I’m not saying that coffee is completely terrible in the states. In fact, I know it’s not. On a recent trip home, I visited a number of places that served coffee with attention. They created a perfect shot, frothed the milk just right and even created designs between the coffee in milk. I just think that places like these are unfortunately overlooked.

So I’m pledging to myself to learn to make coffee like they do down under and I think at home people should embrace small coffee shops that are doing something similar to here.

Banner photo by Bobbi Lee Hitchon, taken at Rehab.

Know of a great coffee shop somewhere in Oz, NZ or USA? Post is below so readers know where to go.

Has my long term trip ruined travel

Dispatches from Down Under

Has my long term trip ruined travel

5 Comments 08 September 2011

I started thinking the other day about my first solo backpacking trip abroad. I was 20 years old and just finishing up a semester abroad in London. After 6 months of city life as well as short trips to European destinations with friends and a few on my own, I still had money left over and was ready go backpacking.

I said goodbye to Garret, a good friend I had made in London and one of the last to stick around the city as long as me, and boarded a plane to Nice, France. What followed was three months of magic that I don’t think I will ever experience again.

Maybe it’s because it was my first real backpacking trip completely arranged and for the most part traveled on my own. Maybe there’s just something about Europe. Regardless, those three months hold a very special place in my heart that no trip has ever succeeded and I don’t think ever will.

My first time was special.

Florence, Italy 2007 by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

Florence, Italy 2007 by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

I wandered with only my backpack, passport and a point in shoot. This was before I had a fancy SLR or laptop to carry around. I had a journal, which I wrote in every day and used communal computers for maybe 15 minutes a week to tell my dad I was alive. I only had three months so I savored every moment.

I can remember raving about every sight, every taste and every person I met.

Of course I still have had and continue to have those moments I had in Europe, but not as much. I just feel a bit numb to a lot of things that would probably amaze any person on a ten-day trip.

Have I just been at it too long? Have I spoiled travel for myself?

As quick as the thought hit me, I went on the defense.

That trip to Europe was magical. Most people’s first backpacking experiences are. And there is definitely something magical and romantic about Europe. All these reasons made coming home after that trip especially hard. In fact, I’ll say it, I went into a slight depression.

And by slight I mean I gained 20 pounds and barely left my apartment for a semester. But not just any semester. The semester I turned 21 years old, which definitely means something in the States.

Fucking, Austria by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

Fucking, Austria 2007 by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

I remember sitting in my apartment with my dad a month after returning to Glassboro, NJ and crying about how hard it was to return to my regular routine after the experience I had had. I vowed to myself that night to travel when I could for as long as I could the next time I had the chance.

That leads me to today. I’ve been on the move for one year, seven months and 13 days. In a trip that long, almost everyone will claim a home and start to adapt at various points. And with any form of “home” a bit “travel” seems to go away I think.

It’s almost become more about the lifestyle than it has about the sights for me. But it’s worth it. It’s a fantastic lifestyle. One where I feel stable, but things still seem new.

So maybe this long term trip hasn’t ruined travel for me, but introduced me to a new kind of lifestyle.

You never get over your first love, but you’ll often find one that’s better suited. So just as I may never get over that fling with Europe. I’m happier with my stable commitment to the world. But don’t worry Europe-we’ll rendezvous again!

Neuschwanstein, Germany 2007 by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

Neuschwanstein, Germany 2007 by Bobbi Lee Hitchon

Kill sharks, kill the planet

China, Destinations, Dispatches from Down Under

Kill sharks, kill the planet

4 Comments 21 March 2011

Originally a delicacy in Chinese culture, shark fin soup has risen in popularity along with the size of China’s middle class in recent years. Once something only served to the wealthy at weddings and celebrations, today shark fins can be found everywhere from high-end to fast food restaurants.

I first heard about the Chinese meal during one of CNN’s Planet in Peril segments. At that point I was still quite afraid of sharks, so didn’t care too much about the issue until I saw the footage. Like sharks or not, watching thousands fished onto a boat, chopped up then thrown back alive, but without fins, is enough for anyone to feel bad.

Because they have gills fish must swim to stay alive. They need fins to swim. So without fins, sharks float in the water slowly suffocating while in a pain similar to that of a human being losing an ear.

That was about three years ago. When I still was quite afraid of sharks. I faced that fear in Australia and definitely conquered it while doing my divemaster in Malapascua, Philippines for five weeks just before visiting Hong Kong.

The main reason people visit Malapascua is to see thresher sharks. One of the only places in the world these sharks can be seen , the calm sharks appear out of the blue and gracefully move around small groups of divers, if they’re lucky. A sighting is pretty likely, but not guaranteed. I did not see a thresher shark until about a week into my stay on Malapascua.

A thresher shark swims at Kemod Shoal, a dive site in Malapascua. Photo by Mark Pacey

A thresher shark swims at Kemod Shoal, a dive site in Malapascua. Photo by Mark Pacey

Stretching up to six meters in length, one might think it would be a scary experience, but really it’s quite peaceful, even breathtaking. I was hooked after my first time. I woke up at 5 a.m. almost every day for the next two weeks after that to get another chance to see the beautiful creature again.

Going from that, to walking down Dried Seafood Street in Sheung Wan, Hong Kong where store after store sells thousands of dried up shark fins was quite the contrast. I actually felt sick seeing how many places sell shark fins. I always thought it was China’s dirty little secret, but no. There it was in bulk at discount prices.

What makes it worse is that according to the documentary Sharkwater, shark fin doesn’t even taste like anything. It’s just an addition in what is essentially a broth-based soup.

Dried shark fins for sale on Dried Seafood Street in Hong Kong. Photo by Bobbi Hitchon

Dried shark fins for sale on Dried Seafood Street in Hong Kong. Photo by Bobbi Hitchon

Still some people don’t care about the issue, because they think “sharks are mean and kill people.” It’s a well-known fact that you’re more likely to die in a car accident or plane crash than by a shark. You’re even more likely to be attacked by another person than a shark. So does that make it okay to eat people?

Whether you care for sharks or not, you should be worried about basic livelihood, which is affected by whether or not sharks exist. Part of the food chain for millions of years, if sharks go the entire ecosystem will be affected.

“70% of the world’s oxygen comes from plankton in the oceans, which is part of the food web that sharks inherently control as the biggest predators.”-Rob Stewart, filmmaker behind Sharkwater.

Very little is being done to address the problem, because sharks are a hard animal to sell. But with 100 million sharks being killed for their fins annually (according to Sharkwater), it’s definitely an issue that should receive more attention. Visit www.sharkwater.com to see what you can do.

From Melbourne to Malapascua

Destinations, Dispatches from Down Under, Philippines, Transportation

From Melbourne to Malapascua

4 Comments 20 March 2011

I started my long, arduous journey to the Philippines at Melbourne Airport at around 11:30 a.m., Wednesday. I arrived there with plenty of time to check-in, so much so that I actually had to wait 20 minutes for the check-In desk to open. This gave me time to contemplate what I was about to do and where I was going.

I met my girlfriend in Australia. She had had to leave due to her visa running out, which meant If I was serious about things and wanted to be with her then I would have to chase her to where ever she was going. I was daunted by the upcoming journey as I had only traveled by myself once before. The travel bug had only really taken hold of me about a year ago. Before that I was content to just holiday with friends and family around Europe a couple of weeks a year.

When the check-in desk opened I was excited to be in the queue for a flight that would take me on a whole new adventure, the excitement soon turned to boredom though as I was made to wait one hour and 15 minutes. When I finally reached the check-in desk the check-in attendant asked me to provide my ticket and passport (normal practice at any international check-in desk).

But that wasn’t it.

She followed with asking for my ongoing ticket out of the Philippines. This came as a shock to me as I’d never heard of it before.

It was fine because I already had my ticket out of the Philippines booked, I just hadn’t printed it off yet as I thought that I wouldn’t need it until I was leaving the country. The attendant was adamant that I needed this ticket printed out for my arrival into the country. I was directed by the attendant to run across the road to the Hilton Hotel to print it off. Obviously, I worried that by the time I’d printed off the ticket I wouldn’t have enough time to get back and check-in. However, I managed to get it printed off and checked in with five minutes to spare. What a great start to a journey I was already nervous about.

With the check-in process taking so long I literally just had to wonder up to my gate and wait 15 minutes for the plane. I noticed on my way through the terminal that there was a currency exchange so decided to change the $50 I had spare into Filipino Pisos, just so I had some money on me for when I landed. The exchange rate there was 37 Pisos to AUS$1. I hadn’t, foolishly, checked any exchange rates and as it was probably my last chance to change money before I got there I changed the $50.

The three hour 50 minute-flight from Melbourne to Darwin went without a hitch. I landed In Darwin and was instructed to head straight to the gate for my flight to Manila. Between myself and the gate there was some security, where I was asked to fill out some immigratIon and customs forms necessary to depart Australia.

Exotic Island Dive Resort has a few hammocks on its beach for guests. Photo by Richard John Hackey

Exotic Island Dive Resort has a few hammocks on its beach for guests. Photo by Richard John Hackey

Again, the flight from Darwin to Manila went without a hitch and I was touching down in a brand new country. I was excited all over again but that excitement was then again dampened by the realisation that I would have to spend the next 8 hours waiting around the airport for my onward flight onto Cebu City.

I decided to try my debit card in a cash machine at the airport as my girlfriend had informed me that she had had trouble withdrawing money when she had landed. I, however, had no problem getting money out. Good thing, because I only had the $50 in Pisos in my wallet. Not the cleverest way to travel I know, but I had left Australia on a whim and, to be completely honest, I was no where near as prepared as I’d have liked to be. The exchange rate on the machine was 43 Pisos to AUS$1! That’s a whole 6 Pisos more than I got from Melbourne airport, I was a bit gutted I had got such a bad rate back in Australia but I quickly got over it as I’d only changed $50.

My next task was to find something to eat and then find a spot where I could perhaps sleep for a few hours. After what seemed like forever I was ready to board my flight to Cebu, the check-in queue moved much quicker this time but when I reached the attendant to weigh my bags she informed me that my bag was too heavy. The allowance for Cebu Pacific flights is 15Kgs, whereas the allowance for my flights from Australia was 20Kgs. My bag weighed 17Kgs so I had to quickly offload a couple of items of clothes and a pair of shoes. I just left them there next to the check-in desk…hopefully someone in the airport will have picked them up and found a use for them.

I headed to my gate and was met with another surprise. I had to pay P200 in airport fees, just to get through to my gate to catch a domestic flight.

By this point I was feeling the affects of traveling and I still had a one-hour flight, a four-hour bus ride and a 45 minute boat trip to go before I reached my destination of Malapascua, an island off the coast of Cebu Island.

I arrived at Cebu Airport and picked up my bags. I headed for a taxi ready to do some bartering as I’d heard that you really have to haggle with the drivers to get the prices down. After agreeing a price of P250, I was in a taxi on my way to the Northern Bus Terminal in Cebu City. The timing was perfect, because when I arrived there the bus for Maya (P95), which is the town where you catch the boat to Malapascua, was leaving. So I jumped out the cab and got straight on the bus. Within five minutes I was off on the penultimate stage of my journey which had so far taken me 24 hours.

The bus ride was insane!

I’m not the best passenger at the best of times, even with the safest of drivers, but this journey really took all I had to keep calm and not shout abuse out to the driver. They just don’t care on the roads here.

I was ridiculously tired by now and all I wanted to do was get an hour or two sleep, this was never going to happen as the bus driver seemed to have a perverse love of his horn. If it wasn’t the horn keeping me awake it was the constant jumping off my seat as we’d hit a bump in the road at outrageous speed.

I arrived at Maya in one piece, thankfully. Luckily, I did not have to deal with the usual welcoming there of scammers trying to charge passengers more than P50 (the standard rate) for the bangka ferry to the island.

The boat ride over to the island was such a complete contrast from the bus journey I’d just endured. I was finally able to chill knowing that I’d soon be arriving and that I could give my girlfriend a massive hug and just chill and have a well earned beer.

Malapascua Island in the Philippines offers clear blue waters and sky, worth the arduous journey. Photo by Richard John Hackey

Malapascua Island in the Philippines offers clear blue waters and sky, worth the arduous journey. Photo by Richard John Hackey

I landed on Malapascua at 2 p.m. and made the short walk up to Exotic Island Dive Resort. where I would be staying. I was greeted at reception by some of my girlfriend’s mates. They told me she had just disappeared to fetch something from her room and that she’d be back any second.

So I decided to hide in the store room and wait. Her friends then told her that they needed something from the store room and asked if she would go and get it for them. Little dId she know I was waiting in the wet suits. She walked into the store room and I jumped out and shouted. She reeled back in shock at first then attacked me with a frenzy of hugs and kisses. I couldn’t believe I’d finally made it out to her!

The trip was long and not without It’s hiccups but I’d made it and all there was left to do was order a beer and enjoy the beautiful surroundings.

The first glimpse of my new home for the next few weeks, Exotic Island Dive Resort in Malapascua, Philippines. Photo by Richard John Hackey

The first glimpse of my new home for the next few weeks, Exotic Island Dive Resort in Malapascua, Philippines. Photo by Richard John Hackey

From solo to couples travel

Dispatches from Down Under

From solo to couples travel

20 Comments 16 March 2011

“We’re going traveling,” he says to me with a cheesy grin.

It was 6:30 a.m. on our last day in Malapascua, Philippines and our first day traveling together. Though I was feeling a bit rough from my snorkel test the night before, the final stage of any good divemaster course in which candidates funnel a concoction of booze, I couldn’t help but smile also.

Anyone whose followed my blog or even just looked at the about me page knows that solo travel was my thing. I’ve always prided myself on being able to go anywhere in the world alone. But something changed on this trip.

It all started about eight months ago in the tropical village of  Port Douglas, Australia when I started waiting tables at a place called Mango Jam. I was a bit nervous to be doing a job I hadn’t in years, but my friendly co-workers made me welcome and at ease. I liked everyone that worked there, but one chef named Ric in particular stood out a bit more.

That first night we all went to Iron Bar for karaoke. Ric and I spoke a bit, but he seemed a bit shy or uninterested, so I left it at that. I asked another girl there about him and she just said,” He’s parsley!” which was a code word for hot one of her friends came up with when she first saw him.

If he was uninterested when we first spoke, then he would want nothing to do with me by the end of the night as I sang “Jessie’s girl.” I’m probably the worst karaoke singer, but I just love it too much to resist.

We stayed friendly with short conversation as I came in and out of the kitchen to pick up food, but that was it. Then one day he came into work on his day off, slightly pissed, and came out of his shell to me by means of licking my face and picking my nose.

I was in love.

Close

Ric and I picnicing in the Botanic Gardens in Melbourne, Australia.

He wasn’t uninterested, just shy. Since I was leaving about ten days after that I figured what the hell and went for him. We started a little work romance that we both knew was just a fling since I was going and he was staying. I felt more, but knew it didn’t matter. I was content with bouncing around the town with him and sneaking into his tent.

And I thought he was too.

Then came my last night. He stopped at my hostel to say hang out for a bit and say goodbye. In the middle of it, he got a call from a friend.

“Nah, I can’t make it. I’m doing something,” he said. “I know. I know. I’ll catch the end of it.”

When he hung up I said if he needed to go I would understand.

“Nah, it just the first Liverpool game of the season,” he said. “My mates were wondering where I was.”

That’s when I knew it was true love.

Living in England for six months, I know how important footie is to them. Knowing Ric for just two months, I knew how important Liverpool was to him.

I left Port Douglas for a month and we kept in touch. I came back  and a week later we moved in together. He left before me and we met in Melbourne. We celebrated the holidays together. He met my dad. We were both upset to say goodbye when I had to leave Australia in January for the Philippines.

He stayed in Australia and saved up with plans of making it out in two months.

Two months?

I couldn’t even get through a day without him.

We made it five weeks, then he made the ridiculous journey to meet me in Malapascua.

He was the last thing I expected in the travels and the best thing I found. While we’ve been living together for about four months, technically we still have not traveled together until now.

Our travels together officially started when we left Malapacua in route to Hong Kong. Since this site is about my travels, it only seems logical for him to join it. So as of now, Heels and Wheels is no longer about solo travel, but about traveling as couple.

Together on our last night in Malapascua, Philippines.

Together on our last night in Malapascua, Philippines.

Ric and I both know traveling together will not always be easy. All couples fight and travel can add extra stress. So to prepare for this big change in my travels I went to traveling couples Amy and Kieron of Don’t Ever Look Back, Laura and Roberto of Travel for Love and Mike and Luci of 1000 Fights for tips and advice. Read what they had to say here.

Welcome Ric to Heels and Wheels and the wonderful world of travel blogging. Be kind to him-he’s still writing with the outdated form of English.

Last day in Oz

Australia, Destinations, Dispatches from Down Under

Last day in Oz

11 Comments 26 January 2011

What a difference a year makes?

That’s the biggest understatement of my 2010.

More so than any other year of my life, this one has been the most changing and unexpected.

I came to Australia in a drought and leave it in floods. I arrived with one friend on the continent and depart with heaps all over. All I wanted to see last January was a koala, now I won’t settle for anything less than a cassowary. I expected to head directly out west and spend most of my year there, but found my heart in tropical Queensland.

My wardrobe to consisted of J. Crew, Old Navy and Anthropology. My wardrobe from contains Cotton On, Witchery and Country Road. I didn’t know of another Bobbi this time last year. Now I know three, one of which is one of my greatest friends-that’s going to be confusing. I came thinking I KNEW good coffee, but leave Melbourne realizing I had NO IDEA!

I thought I’d meet and make friends with tons of Aussies, but the majority of mine came from the UK. A year ago the thought of Manchester, England wouldn’t have even crossed my mind, now I’ve adopted a family of “Mancs.”

I arrived single, selfish and uninterested in anything other than business and travel and leave committed, in love and counting the days till I see him again.

It’s definitely been a year of surprises, but best of my life thus far.

I’ve thought of how I would write this post a million times throughout my trip. The first draft explained it as just a nice, impacting visit filled with a few good people and great photos. The next was written as just a one year anniversary, rather than a good bye. The following was a letter to the government, begging them to let me stay just a little bit long. But the last, this one, is a huge thank you and can’t wait to see you again.

This year and this country has made me a happier person.

Through a lot of great times and even some bad, I can honestly say that I love this country for better or worse. It’s home to some of the most beautiful places on earth. The culture changes over and over from top to bottom. The only thing its people are serious about is being proud of their homeland, and sport. They never miss an opportunity to celebrate life and they’ll take the piss out of just about anyone, including themselves.

It’s just a care free and easy place to live- and I got a whole year here.

Those who have followed me through this trip know what I’ve taken from it. But besides a few comments, I’m not sure what they’ve taken. So on my last day here, I’ll say what I hope it is.

Possibility.

I spent a lot of my last year in college on the computer, trying to figure out what to do next. After 22 years of following what in America people are just suppose to do, I finally had a chance to make my own decision. I wanted so badly to travel, but was scared and lost hope quite a few times. Whether because of money, work or circumstance, I didn’t think it was possible for me at that moment.

I followed “the American dream” a bit more and landed a sweet job. I was happy, but it wasn’t what I wanted. So I revisited my dream, this time with determination. It started with putting a bit money aside, continued with a passport application and finished with a plane ticket.

I’ve received so many emails from people saying they wish they could do what I’m doing. My response will always be, “You can.” It may not always be easy, but anything is possible.

Maybe travel isn’t your passion. That’s fine. Follow whatever makes you happy. But for those with who dream of life abroad like I did, stop reading about it and do it. Stop Googling to make sure it’s okay and just see for yourself. Stop limiting yourself to one place and realize the possibilities available to you all over the world.

Never have I felt as many possibilities as I did during this past year in this country.

For that, thanks Australia. You’ve made more opportunities possible for this little American than you’ll ever know.

Sex and the world

Dispatches from Down Under

Sex and the world

15 Comments 12 October 2010

I hate writing about relationships, which is why I’ve put off a post like this several times in my travels.

But I’ve reached a point in my trip where it can’t be avoided.

Throughout this trip I’ve met boys, kissed them, liked them, left them, broken hearts and had my own broken. But up until now I’ve never actually fallen for one of them.

It started with flirtation at work, continued with a kiss in the middle of the main street in town and progressed to spending every day together. The whole time I thought it was just fun, fun, fun. Then one day I realized I was changing my own plans in order to spend more time with him. It was just little changes in my day-to-day routine, but nonetheless changes to suit someone else, from a girl who actually encourages selfishness.

Travel is selfish. It’s not a bad thing, just the way it is. A person spends months, sometimes years, saving up for the trip of  a lifetime. So when that person reaches his or her destination, he or she has every right to spend his or her money and time how he or she chooses.

That mindset was easy when I was constantly moving and never really forming lasting relationships. But when I finally stopped, my selfish self slowly faded away. I met friends that made me want to think of more than just myself and formed relationships that made me want to give more than just a day.

Even if I felt like Port Douglas was my home, I always knew it wouldn’t last. I was going to leave here at some point and leave all the people I has become so close with. Still, I never thought that “just a fling” would make the move this difficult.

It’s probably the most nerve-wrecking thing for independent women to find themselves rethinking their plans. I changed my departure date twice, because I wanted more time with another person. It’s hard to tell what’s the right thing to do in a situation like this and I think inevitably you just need to follow your heart and do what makes you happy, but even that can be shaky.

Say you’re both on the road and want to try to make your encounter more than brief. Someone has to compromise. You both came to a place with things you wanted to see and do. If those things are the same than that’s luck, but they’ll most likely be different, especially if you’re at different points on your trip. So who is going to change their plans and how do you know the person that does won’t feel subconsciously bitter about it.

Further, people aren’t always themselves abroad. I know I can be a bit different from place to place and I’m definitely more relaxed while traveling than I am at home. So how do you know you won’t discover a new person in your significant other after only a few weeks traveling together and when you do, what do you do? Where do you go? It’s not easy to up and change your plans when your on a budget.

It’s not easy to leave someone you like, but sometimes it can be even harder to stay with them.

Relationships can bring on a level of stress to someone who is constantly on the go. So why bother? Is it even worth it?

Yes.

One shouldn’t avoid dating abroad for fear of getting too attached. The people you meet, the moments you have with them and things you learn are worth any heart ache or loss.

Everyone has needs and they shouldn’t be neglected. Dating people abroad can produce some exhilarating experiences; spending the night kissing a stranger along the waterways in Amsterdam, running off with someone for a few days to Paris, shacking up with someone for a few months in Thailand.

Further, dating people outside your own culture is fun and intriguing. It adds a difference in dating that most people never experience. Every culture has differences in everything from kissing to cuddling. It keeps you on your toes, because you really don’t know what to expect.

Inevitably, I think it’s important to give a bit of yourself to romance during your travels, but never lose yourself completely. The most important person on your trip is you and the last thing you want to do is leave a place thinking, “God I wish I hadn’t of wasted two months following some guy around.”

When you find yourself neglecting what you want to do for another, stop and think about it.

If you’re meant to be with someone you will be again…at some point, somewhere in the world. But you may never have the freedom you have in this trip. The time and the choice to just go wherever and do whatever you want. Embrace it.

It may sound corny, but you’re the most important person in your life, because if you’re not happy, you can’t be happy with other people.

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